Deep in the heart of San Antonio, nestled among the same blooming shade trees that line the walls of the Alamo, the Emily Morgan awaits.
Named after the Mexican General Santa Anna's slave-mistress (who is reported to have served as a spy for him during the war for Texas independence), the hotel is an architecturally beautiful and historic building which was built in the early 1920's.
The hotel was a former hospital and has drawn much interest due to speculation that it is haunted. According to former guests, staff and folklorists, apparitions and unusual phenomena visit the building, most often on the 7th floor, the 12th floor, and in the basement.
The outside of the hotel is styled with sharp, clean lines, gothic gargoyles, and intricate scrollwork framing the windows and rooftops which proved to foreshadow the attention to detail that I experienced during my stay.
The lobby is decorated in rich, warm tones of walnut, mahogany and cream. Urban-contemporary club chairs and occasional tables flank the check-in desk, where my reservation was processed quickly (the wall of flowing water which was installed behind the check-in area was a nice touch).
The rooms of the Emily Morgan are fashioned in much the same way, with warm, modern furniture and big, fluffy beds. Queen-size rooms are definitely on the smaller side, although they are not uncomfortable for a weekend getaway for two. Rooms with two double beds are exceedingly spacious, so if you enjoy the extra room you might want to consider asking for this option in exchange for the larger bed.
The King-size bedrooms are perhaps the largest and most romantic option. These rooms have vast, sweeping ceilings and ooze old-world charm. The queen and king-sized beds are equipped with thick, feathered mattress toppers which are especially thick and soft.
A big draw for the Emily Morgan comes with the amenities: Plush, waffle-weave bathrobes, a variety of Aveda hair and lotion products, WolfGang Puck coffee, and for many rooms a jacuzzi tub. The televisions feature many basic cable channels, a movie channel, local channels, electonic account management (for the convenince of in-room checkout), and pay-per-view movies and games.
Room service featured dishes from the hotel's restaurant, ORO, and was simply outstanding. I tried the steak and egg breakfast, which featured a perfectly marinated, tender fillet along with eggs, toast, bacon and a crisp stack of hash-browned potatoes.
Although I was not able to dine-in at the ORO restaurant, which is located in a large corner of the lobby, it is certainly worth mentioning. The restaurant's large, comfortable bar, accessible near the center of the lobby, allows glimpses into the dining area (which is situated behind and beside it).
Tall, high-backed booths provide an intimate and private setting. At night, the restaurant was very dim and lit by candles and tiny low-wattage lights.
It appeared to be an extremely romantic and cozy environment. On my visit, I noticed several nightly special entrees which were listed at the front of the restaurant.
I should also mention that, in spite of the elegant and high-end decor, the hotel projected an absolute air of comfort for the "average-joe". On a weekend night, as I entered the lobby on my way to do some sight-seeing on the streets, I was struck by how comfortable the environment was for me. Although I am a traveler who enjoys nice things, I am somewhat intimidated by hotels where the environment is either pretentious or swimming with "movers-and-shakers".
The Emily Morgan was neither. A young married couple sat on a pair of the club chairs, the husband making animated baby-talk as he held an infant, while the mother set up an umbrella stroller. Two men in business suits walked to the elevator, laughing as they carried on a conversation, and an adult family was gathered at the entrance to the ORO restaurant, giving each other hugs of greeting. It was refreshing to feel such a laid-back ambience in an upscale environment.
The pool and hot-tub are located on an outdoor deck. The pool was cool and inviting, with an unusual stainless-steel finish. The large hot-tub, built next to the pool, was used frequently by other guests during my stay, which perhaps explained a greasy froth on the water that prevented me from
trying it out.
Due to the unique design of the building (a Y-shape, reminiscent of what you might see in New York City), many of the rooms provide views of nearby parking lots and buildings, and others feature the coveted views of the neighboring Alamo (which is beautifully lit in soft lights at night). No other hotel in San Antonio is able to provide such a view, and I would recommend that you request it when making reservations.
The Emily Morgan hotel was the perfect choice for my weekend in San Antonio. I would highly recommend it to both business and pleasure travelers, especially those looking for a romantic getaway.
While the real Emily Morgan was fondly referred to in legends as the 'Yellow Rose of Texas', the moniker can also appropriately describe her namesake. This hotel is a colorful Texas landmark, and it is truly in full bloom.