22nd August,2006
The water was indeed beautiful – crystal clear, though populated with millions of jellyfish, which do not appear to sting at all. There was a strong current initially, so we put one dinghy downstream and took the other upstream to give us a head start. Despite an abundance of large fish, we did not do very well at spearing them. Peter did spear a sweetlip, but it attracted a shark! Chris caught two further fish and we had another bbq on the beach. The next day our dive was highlighted by 3 enormous manta rays, swimming in formation. They were inquisitive about us and were turning cartwheels in formation to have a better look. It was like water ballet with the most graceful of dancers attired in black and white floating costumes.
Sadly, we had to leave and go north to Panasia, which I assumed was populated and we would be able to trade for bananas, coconuts and pawpaws. The island turned out to owned by one man, called John, who actually lives on the other side of the island. He brought us a few coconuts, beans and corn, and we promised to go around in the dinghy to get more. John from Zero Gravity ran him home and found vertical waves and was soaked trying to get back, so we abandoned the attempt, feeling guilty that he may have picked lots of coconuts. It was easy to see why the island, although large, did not support a large population – it was precipitous on all sides, with very little fringing land at the base. We anchored in a lovely lagoon with splendid cliffs on 2 sides. The more energetic of our party ventured ashore to climb the cliffs and arrived back some hours later with scary tales. Fortunately, I can now claim old age (and wisdom) and refuse to go.
Last night was a party for Mariet’s birthday and to farewell Zero Gravity, as they are heading back to Australia via the Duchateau Islands. We made French onion dip and hommus with biscuits, had our last chips and our last wine, and Joy made sushi. Main course was mackerel marinated in soy and ginger with an innovative salad from Joy and rice. But the piece de resistance was the sponge cakes John, a pastrycook, made for dessert, followed by chocolates, dessert wine and coffee. Not bad for in the middle of nowhere!
Now we are off again, leaving the Calvados group to head eastwards towards Samurai, where we must leave PNG.