Las Vegas and Reno. They sit at opposite poles of the same state, geographically and in just about every other sense. This spring we spent some time in both of these Nevada cities, as we do at least once a year, and as always we were impressed by their differences more than their similarities.Most visitors to these towns don't really think about this, but they both have excellent library systems and, from what we can tell, good schools as well. We've performed for the Washoe County (Reno) Library System more than a dozen times -- they've been our most repeated of repeat clients -- but only at 4 of the area schools. We've performed at over a dozen Las Vegas schools, but so far at none of the Clark County Libraries (they invited us this summer, but we had prior commitments.) Both also seem to have good public transit systems; I suppose it makes sense that public services are so adequate because of the revenue derived, in both municipalities, from games of chance, the foundation of both economies almost from the beginning (Reno first, and Las Vegas shortly thereafter). And like just about any resort destination, both locations teem with cultural and entertainment activity, ranging from flamboyant comedy revues to opera and ballet to major art exhibits. Both seem in recent years to have inherited much of the smog that Los Angeles has been forfeiting. But contrary to the stereotypes associated with gambling communities, both apparently have lower than average crime rates.
But that's about as far as the similarities extend. Reno, which straddles the Truckee River at the base of the magnificent Sierra Nevada Mountains, is, as the arch in the heart of downtown proudly proclaims, 'The Biggest Little City in the World', with a population of only about 180,000 (plus another 66,000 in adjacent Sparks). You can stroll all the way across town in half a day. But Las Vegas, which sprawls almost to infinity in the desert, is just plain big, no matter how you measure it. The last I heard, about a million souls were living there and in the surrounding communities, and thousands more were joining them every year. But the tourists probably outnumber the residents on most days. And walking 3 or 4 of the huge blocks making up Las Vegas Boulevard ('The Strip') can leave you drained -- especially in the summer when the temperature hovers near 120.
Reno also is growing in population, but much more slowly. And whereas Las Vegas is adding new attractions all the time, Reno seems to be losing them. Harold's Club, The Comstock, The Pioneer and Eddie's all have closed their doors since the first time we came to town.
And while the fabulous Mapes Hotel was shuttered over 20 years ago, it still stood vacant until January of 2000, when it was imploded as part of a tawdry half-time spectacle of a televised football game. Once again, a community has learned the hard way that while you can build all the new buildings you want, you can never never never never never build an old one. Especially a monumental old one like The Mapes. I always relished just taking in the visual spectacle of its antiquated art deco design, and now this classic venue that was frequented by Red Skelton and other big names is nothing but a memory. (You can catch a glimpse of The Mapes in its glory days in Robert Altman's 1974 film 'California Split'.)
There have also been a few new additions to Reno's skyline, including a new bowling stadium that purports to be the nation's largest. The Silver Legacy and The Atlantis have contributed elegance, but nothing near the glitz you'll find in Reno's southern sister. Nor does it appear that too much glitz ever will find its way up north. Not long ago, actor Max Baer, Jr. made a very sincere pitch to the city to erect a hotel/casino themed after 'The Beverly Hillbillies' (on which he portrayed Jethro), complete with a spouting oil derrick. From what I gather, the project was rejected. North is North and South is South, and never the twain shall meet.
We have some very fond memories of Reno, having been performing there regularly since our first year in business. Kimberly and I also spent our honeymoon there, and at nearby Lake Tahoe. And for the past 5 years, her parents have lived there.
At first glance, it seems there is far less for visiting youngsters to do in Reno than in Vegas. In terms of continuously available free family activity, there isn't much outside of the circus acts at Circus Circus; and unlike the Circus Circus in Las Vegas, there are no comfortable seats for watching the performances -- -you just have to crowd against the rail.
Guess who is driving that car. Then hover your cursor over for the answer.
But Reno seems to provide a rather stronger sense of community -- -a place to live instead of just to vacation. During the warm months, there are festivals by the river, a hot air balloon festival, and Hot August Nights with a cavalcade of vintage automobiles in celebration of The Fifties A short drive will take you to the living ghost town of Virginia City, where Mark Twain cut his teeth in journalism (the newspaper office where he worked has been preserved as a museum, complete with an old toilet seat and a sign saying 'Mark Twain sat here'). Every September, Virginia City hosts camel (and ostrich) races. How often do you get to see THAT?
Lake Tahoe is truly one of the most beautiful spots on earth, with fine hiking and biking trails, swimming and boating in the summer, and outstanding skiing in the winter. (The Olympics were staged here in the Sixties.) And you also still can tour The Ponderosa Ranch, where many episodes of TV's 'Bonanza' were filmed.
It surprised me to hear that more writers per capita live in Reno than in any other city in the Western United States. But it really shouldn't have; the city does have that kind of ambiance. Among other things, the University of Nevada is located here (featuring a rather accessible astronomical observatory) and, like just about everything else, it's only a short walk from downtown. Oh yes, and Reno experiences real seasons, including subzero temperatures and significant snowfall.
During our last tour of Reno, Kimberly was stricken with a severe illness and when I took her to the doctor, only a few blocks from where we were staying, I found myself feeling grateful for the community's compactness. We had 6 performances scheduled for that week, and Zephyr and I had to do the first 4 without her, making some drastic changes on very short notice. It was the first time in our 14 years in business that one of us has had to miss a show because of illness. But these performances were well received by the audience -- -some folks commented that they never would have known that someone was missing -- -and a school we performed at has already invited us back next year. I guess we must have done SOMETHING right!
For better, and now for worse, Reno seldom has failed to deliver a memorable experience!