Got to Karimabad this morning, lucky that packs remained dry after goat on board bus decided that it needed a toilet break, running down the aisle...
Surprised that Karimabad had internet (satellite, so surprisingly fast, versus inability to make phone call out of town).
Baltit fort was beautiful with fabulous views. Our guide (included in ticket price) was more than willing to talk about history and the political situation. Didn't get to Ganish until late in the day, but worth the effort, as the old town was fascinating and the people friendly (more tea !)
From here, we hiked up to Ultar Meadow for a day trip (too hot and too high altitude for us to consider Hon Pass). Picked up other people's guide, who took us back via the water channels (steep, scary drop) and local towns. Walnut cake and sunset, then onto the Eagle's Nest at Duikar - gorgeous views (and another slightly hairy trip), and more fabulous Hunza Food.
Before we left for Gilgit, a quick walk along the water channels to Altit - the old town and fort, again, beautiful - it will be fabulous once they finish renovations and more are accessible.
The people here have been fabulously friendly and very helpful. I do think wearing the local gear has helped, especially with meeting the
local women. It's said that you rarely can take photos of women, but the teachers we met yesterday were asking for photos to be taken.
Digital cameras are great - kids race up for their photo to be taken, knowing they get to see themselves.
Food has been good - basic curries up in Passu, but more interesting stuff now that we're in Hunza Valley - divine walnut cake for morning
tea (from Cafe de Hunza), and a chapatti/fresh cheese/apricot oil sandwich thingy for lunch (Hidden Paradise).
Apples are all out on the trees, so you're never hungry if you're near a village - grab an apple off a tree - but mostly the locals are stopping
us to give us apples.