I know I made this point the other day, but I just don't think I can get across how vibrant and buzzing Japan is after dark. Walking about you feel really energetic and enthused-it makes you feel like running about shouting or doing a cartwheel or something. I can pick up this vibe, yet I have no idea whats going on and can't speak a word of the language to find out either! It must be even brillianter (I know its not a word) if you are a native and not an outsider attempting to look in. I have no idea how the people are like this. They, literally, live on top of each other and work til they drop, so where this feel good factor comes from I just don't know. Whatever it is, I wish I could bring it home-people out on the drink actually getting drunk and laughing and being more sociable, as opposed to feeling the night isn't complete unless they get into a fight. I'm waffling now, but just trust me that its brilliant.
Ok, today. After threatening to go to Nikko for the past few days, my hand was forced today by the fact that my unlimited rail pass was due to expire. Nikko is about two hours away, so I was up and away by 8am. The journey was a bit more difficult than previous ones as it was not on the main line, meaning i had to figure out which train to get, as opposed to just getting on the mainline train. I also had to change trains too. The simple things are quite daunting when you don't read a word of the language. So offs I trot and locate the eastern railway line train to Utsunomiya (wheer i was due to change). I dont know if this is unique or not, but the train I caught was a double decker-I can honestly say I have never seen a double decker train before! It looked odd to say the least. Catching my connection with suprising ease, I arrived at Nikko around 10:15ish. Just outside the station (which was really rubbish by the way-more like a bus stop) a large map highlighted the direction to head to the main attractions (which I failed to mention is the Tosho-gu shrine. Its world heritage listed, apparently). Joining me here was a group of Americans (for a change) who, after interpreting the map, decided the shrine was to the left. Looking at the map myself, I was sure they had it the wrong way, meaning right was the correct way to go. I sought a second opinion from my group and yes, I still agreed with myself that it was right. So everyone at the map except me went left. Ha Ha Ha, bloody Americans. Within 35 mins of walking I was at the bridge leading to the shrine and I didn't see them again all day. They are probably at the coast by now...
The bridge leading to the grounds of the shrine is a red lacquered thing called Shin-kyo and is said to mark the spot where two snakes came out of the water to help a Buddist Priest cross the river. Crossing the snakes brings you to stone steps that lead up into the National park and the general area of the shrine. The shrine itself was bulit after the death of Tokugewa Ieyasu and improved upon later after his grandson decided it wasn't fancy enough (although the crafty sod made local lords help pay for it, thus stopping them saving enough cash of their own to ever challenge his power). Once you get up the steps and into the park, you are greeted by a stone statue and a dragon fountain. A bit further on is a big pagoda, its a really impressive one as apart from being big its brightly panted in a range of colours. A pagoda, just in case you are not sure, is a tall wooden buildings that looks a bit like cups and saucers do when they are stacked on top of each other. Here the free stuff ends and you have to fork out 7 quid to get into the Shrine proper. I can safely say that it is the most over the top thing I have ever seen. It must have bankrupt the warlords to build this, nevermnd keep their funds under control. Masses of detailed pictures and carvings cover most of the walls, statues standing guard beside doorways etc. It was a bit of an assault on the eyes, but it was this that made it worth the effort. Around the back of the main building (and up some 200 steps) was the actual tomb of Ieyasu. Ater the explosion of colour at the shrine, this was a bit disappointing-especially after having to drag my sore leg up all those bloody steps! In total I spent a good few hours around here, and it would have been easier to spend longer.
Late afternoon by now, so I decided to stop off at Tokyo to get something to eat. I opted for some sort of chicken with egg, rice and vegtables. The man who served me brought me a spoon over (not a fork, but a spoon!), but I sharp showed him my chop-stick skills! As the bigger cities in Japan don't really get going til late anyways, I went for a look around the shops. As decent as they were, I can honestly say that out of all the shopping areas I've been to Tokyo is the most disappointing. I was suprised at this, but I assume that with it being the capital it is probably more business than tourist orientated?
I finished off the day by having a wander around Minami-Senju (the area where my hotel is) before sitting to write this. All in all, a very good and knackering day.
N.B. On the map that shows where I have been (the little red dots) there is one right at the top for Ebisu. I haven't been there, I went to Ebisu near Tokyo. The red dot at the top would take me about 1/2 a day to get to!